Another Bucket List Destination Checked Off: Nature Journaling in the Galápagos Islands
- Billie Jo Reid
- Jun 11
- 7 min read
Some adventures feel almost too good to be true.
At the end of May, I had the incredible honour of co-leading another one of John (Jack) Muir Laws' nature journaling trips, this time to the Galápagos Islands. As many of you know, the Galápagos has long been on my bucket list. It is one of those places I have dreamed about visiting for years, but never truly thought I would have the opportunity to experience.
So, before I share any of the details, I want to say thank you to Jack from the bottom of my heart for inviting me on this spectacular adventure. It is a gift I will never forget.
The Journey Begins
My trip started with a flight from Toronto and an eight-hour layover in Miami. Before boarding the final flight to Quito, Ecuador, I met up with Jack and several of the other participants. It was exciting to finally put faces to names and begin connecting with the group that I would be spending the next week with.
We arrived in Quito late in the evening and stayed overnight in a small hotel near the airport. The hotel happened to have alpacas wandering the grounds, which felt like a fitting welcome to the adventure ahead.
After checking in, we headed straight to bed because another early morning flight awaited us.
Welcome to the Galápagos
The next morning, our group gathered and flew to Baltra Island in the Galápagos. One participant would meet us there, but the rest of the group was finally together and buzzing with anticipation.
Nothing could have prepared me for what happened when we stepped off the plane.
As we walked through the airport, we were immediately greeted by ground finches, lava lizards, and enormous land iguanas.
What a welcoming committee!
Of course, nature journals appeared almost instantly. Before we had even left the airport, people were already sketching, observing, and recording their discoveries.
After passing through security, we met our guide Xavier and crew member George. A short bus ride brought us to the docks, where we boarded small zodiacs that ferried us to our yacht, the Adia Maria.
This beautiful vessel would be our home for the next week.
Bachas Beach: Our First Adventure
After settling into our cabins, we sailed to Bachas Beach for our first nature journaling adventure.
The Galápagos immediately began to exceed every expectation.
Here we encountered our first marine iguanas basking on the shore, brilliant Sally Lightfoot crabs scurrying across the rocks, numerous bird species, and even a flamingo.
We also had our first opportunity to snorkel in the warm, crystal-clear waters.
As the sun set, we began an eight-hour overnight sail to Genovesa Island, often referred to as "Bird Island." The crossing was rough, with plenty of rolling waves and rocking motion.
Fortunately, I learned something very important about myself that night:
I do not get seasick.
Thank goodness!
Genovesa: A World of Birds
The next morning, I woke up to one of the most extraordinary sights I have ever experienced.
Birds.
Thousands and thousands of birds.
Everywhere.
We took the zodiac ashore and spent the morning exploring among sea lions, red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, frigate birds, and countless other species.
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Galápagos is the complete lack of fear wildlife has toward humans. Animals simply go about their lives while you quietly observe and document their behaviour.
For a nature journaler, it feels like stepping into a dream.
That afternoon brought an adventure I had been both excited about and dreading: snorkeling in waters known for hammerhead sharks.
To be completely honest, I was terrified.
Thankfully, Jack was an incredible friend. He offered to buddy up with me and literally held my hand the entire time.
Although we didn't see any hammerheads, we were surrounded by an astonishing variety of fish. Later that day we snorkeled again and encountered Moorish idol fish, bicolour parrotfish, and a sleeping green sea turtle.
This was also my first experience nature journaling while snorkeling. Focusing on underwater observations helped me slow down, notice details, and think about something other than sharks!
That evening we hiked to Prince Philip's Steps where we encountered more red-footed and Nazca boobies, nesting frigate birds, enormous caterpillars, a Large Ground Finch, and even a Short-eared Owl.
The scenery was breathtaking. Every direction offered another incredible view.
That night, from the deck of the yacht, we watched flying fish leap from the ocean while hundreds of birds soared overhead.
Bartolomé: Penguins, Sharks, and Sea Lions
During the night we sailed to Bartolomé Island.
The next morning, I woke to the iconic sight of Pinnacle Rock rising dramatically from the sea. While admiring the view, I glanced into the water and spotted two Galápagos sharks circling the boat.
Both were around six feet long.
While this did absolutely nothing to help my fear of sharks, it was incredible to see them.
We started the day with an early hike up the volcanic landscape, where we were treated to spectacular views and our first close look at the famous lava fields.
After the hike came what would become my favourite snorkeling experience of the entire trip.
Snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock felt like swimming inside an aquarium. The water clarity was unbelievable.
Jack and I teamed up again, and before long we were rewarded with the sight of a Galápagos penguin swimming past us.
Then we saw our first shark.
A blacktip reef shark.
To my surprise, I wasn't terrified. I was fascinated.
By the end of the snorkel we had seen six blacktip reef sharks and one Galápagos shark in the distance.
Then came one of the most memorable wildlife encounters of my life.
A sea lion approached me underwater.
It looked directly into my eyes and swam toward me so closely that I thought it was going to bump my mask. Instead, it gracefully turned and swam underneath me, looking up as it passed.
Then it came back and did it again.
It was one of those rare moments of connection with a wild animal that stays with you forever.
As if that wasn't enough excitement, we later spotted a Galápagos penguin perched on the rocks while returning to the boat.
Tiny. Adorable. Perfect.
Walking Through Lava
That afternoon we explored the lava fields of Sullivan Bay.
Walking across the hardened lava felt like stepping onto another planet. The patterns and textures created by ancient volcanic activity were mesmerizing.
Naturally, we stopped frequently to nature journal along the way before spending some time cooling off at the beach.
Later that evening we sailed to Santa Cruz Island.
Santa Cruz: Sharks, Turtles, and Blue Feet
Our morning began in Black Turtle Cove, a mangrove-lined lagoon that serves as a nursery for blacktip reef sharks.
We observed dozens of baby sharks and a total of ten green sea turtles.
This was also the day we finally met one of the Galápagos' most famous residents:
The blue-footed booby.
Pictures simply do not do their feet justice.
That afternoon we hiked Dragon Hill, home to many Galápagos land iguanas. We observed nine large males, each one more colourful and impressive than the last.
That evening we sailed around the island in preparation for a day with giant tortoises.
Giants of the Highlands
The following morning we traveled into the cloud forest highlands.
Even before reaching our destination, we had already spotted twelve giant tortoises along the roadside.
By the end of the day, I had seen fourteen more.
These animals are absolutely massive.
Earlier in the trip, Jack had told me he couldn't wait to see my reaction the first time I heard one exhale.
Then it happened.
The giant tortoise released a long, deep breath, and I immediately looked at Jack in complete amazement.
He burst out laughing.
The only way I can describe the sound is that it resembles Darth Vader breathing.
It was incredible.
Spending time with these ancient giants was one of the highlights of the entire trip.
That afternoon we visited Puerto Ayora, where several of us enjoyed delicious gelato before exploring the town.
Floreana and a Tradition of Connection
The next morning we arrived at Floreana Island and visited Post Office Bay.
This fascinating tradition dates back to the 1700s when sailors would leave letters inside a barrel for future travelers to deliver.
The tradition continues today.
I selected two postcards destined for locations near my home and am excited to personally deliver them.
From there we continued to Cormorant Point, where we observed flamingos and, for the first time, hermit crabs.
Later we headed to Devil's Crown for snorkeling. Conditions were rough, so several of us chose to float near shore while watching sea lions play in the waves.
We had an absolute blast.
Española: Albatrosses and Christmas Iguanas
Our next stop was Española Island.
Here we observed waved albatrosses performing their elaborate courtship dances. Watching them interact was fascinating and often hilarious.
We were also fortunate to encounter the famous "Christmas" marine iguanas, named for their brilliant red, green, and black coloration.
They were stunning.
That afternoon we sailed to San Cristóbal Island where we spent the evening exploring the town, enjoying more gelato, and doing a little shopping.
The waves were enormous, making docking quite the adventure and providing plenty of laughs.
A Perfect Ending
On our final morning, we took one last zodiac ride.
Young frigate
birds soared overhead while sea lions played around us. One young sea lion even took a nap beside the snorkeling gear on the back of the yacht.
They followed our zodiacs, played in the wake, and provided endless entertainment.
Soon it was time to return to shore and begin our journeys home.
As I reflect on this experience, I am overwhelmed with gratitude.
This trip was filled with adventure, observation, wonder, laughter, learning, and extraordinary wildlife encounters. But what made it truly special was the people.
Every member of this group showed up as their best self. They were curious, supportive, enthusiastic, and kind. Together we shared countless moments of discovery and created memories that will last a lifetime.
The Galápagos was everything I had dreamed it would be and so much more.
A true bucket-list adventure.
One I will carry with me forever.
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